Raf Simons and interdisciplinary fashion from Post-Punk to Neo-Modern [Document imprimé] / Nick Rees-Roberts
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Since the launch of this menswear label in 1995, Belgian designer Raf Simons has consistently caught the zeitgeist of contemporary fashion, supplying menswear with a range of styles, shapes, and symbols that articulate ideals of masculinity, influenced by European pop music, youth subcultures, mid-century fine art, modernist architecture, and interior design. This article examines the interdisciplinary relationship betweenSimons design and their contextual influences, documenting how his signature, first established in menswear, has been transformed through his womenswear collections for Jil Sander (2005-12) and since 2012 for Chirstian Dior , where he has reinterpreted the house 's couture heritage. Drawing on archive material at the MoMu fashion Museum in Antwerp and the "Dior impressions" exhibitions at the Christian Dior museum in Granville in 2013, this article further argues that a crossgender dynamic is perceptible in Simons' later designs, part of this formal or neo-modern" preoccupation with shape, color, and technology. The article concludes by suggesting that Simons' nomination at one of the most prestigious of Parisian fashion houses and global luxury brands positions him as heir to the artistic and architectural strand of the couturier's legacy, making him instrumental in Dior's projection of its design heritage.
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- Style vestimentaire (33)
- Mode masculine (197)